4/29/14 – 5/7/14: Siem Reap, Cambodia
Siem Reap feels like someone took a bite out of Bangkok and spat it into a jungle. It’s got the same frenzy with none of the structure. No sidewalks, nor crosswalks, and the roads are so dusty you can barely tell they’re paved. Tuk-tuk drivers line the streets hunting for fares outside rows of restaurants and souvenir shops filling city blocks. It was in one of these shops where we learned what sets the city apart: It’s modest. It doesn’t like to gloat. As demonstrated by this slogan we read on a t-shirt: “Cambodia – Probably the best temples in the world.” You see what I mean? Probably the best. Well, we were about to find out.
Siem Reap was a destination on our RTW trip from the very beginning exactly because of those temples. Specifically, one of the most famous temples in the world: Angkor Wat. What we didn’t realize then was that Angkor Wat is one of over a thousand temples within Angkor Archaeological Park. It’s overwhelming to choose which sights to see but we quickly found a guide who knew the lay of the land.
Ma-Lee was a tuk-tuk driver whom we hired to transport us around the area during our stay. Being there for one week, we figured a 3-day pass spread over six days would be enough. It would allow us to select temples of varying size, design, color, and atmosphere. Simultaneously, we’d be able to take every-other day off to recover from our efforts, because man, it was damn hot! (Thank you, Chai!)
Before sharing our Angkor tour with you I should probably provide a modicum of history, because Lord knows we needed it! Way back in the 9th century the Khmer dynasty ruled a vast civilization covering much of what we know today as Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, and southern Vietnam. The city of Angkor was the royal center from which the Khmer kings ruled. Through the 13th century numerous construction projects were undertaken, including the famous temple of Angkor Wat. It was built in the 12th century and it still stands today as the finest example of Khmer architecture in the world.
That was my ultra-mini CliffsNotes version and not nearly enough information but, hey, I’ve got a tour to get through!
The Temples of Angkor: A 3-Day Tour
Day 1: Despite the breeze provided by our tuk-tuk ride, our clothes clung to our bodies the moment our feet hit the ground. Beads of sweat swam across our brows, but nothing was going to keep us from exploring Banteay Srei. Located 37 kilometers north of Siem Reap, this relatively small temple was definitely off the beaten path. However, when we discovered Banteay Srei means “citadel of the women” we knew we had to see it. Happily, it was worth the journey.
This temple is known as the “citadel of the women” because people believe only women could’ve created its intricately carved designs. It may only be a coincidence, but I suspect the pinkish hue of the red sandstone may have something to do with it as well. Either way, the craftsmanship was astounding, with clear depictions of humans and animals, alike, deeply engraved into the stone. It was especially impressive considering it was built in 967 A.D. It had weathered erosion exceptionally well throughout the centuries. Maybe that’s another reason behind the name? Women persevere.
Next up was Preah Khan, which was a crumbling ruin overrun by the encroaching jungle. Massive trees bulged from bricks while gigantic roots clutched the walls like talons. You couldn’t help but feel like Indiana Jones as you walked along the passageways, searching for golden idols around every corner, a long shaft of light pointing the way. And where there’s treasure, there’s danger…
No idols were found, of course, but the danger was certainly real. Ceilings were gone or disintegrating with thick sticks bracing the more precarious sections. Yet on we walked, snapping pictures as though impervious to harm. The doorways framed one another, creating an optical illusion as though you were staring into an endless corridor. A patchwork of light shown the way until we finally reached an open archway and exited into a courtyard.
Several little girls under the age of 10 appeared. They attempted to sell us postcards, magnets, and other tourist trinkets. They were skilled peddlers, pushing their merchandise hard. We said no several times because we don’t support buying things from children since it encourages parents to keep them out of school. It’s a struggle, of course, because the money helps their families, but both Katie and I feel it’s better to donate through legitimate charities instead. To distract the young girls from the disappointment of losing a sale I showed them hand tricks like “Here’s the church, here’s the steeple.” And just like that they were kids again, curious about the new game, their merchandise forgotten.
Our final stop of the day was Ta Som. We entered through a stone enclosure. Massive Buddha faces peered out from the foundation. Once again, a mighty tree with tangled roots dominated the back end shooting up from a doorway. These temples are something out of a dream; a place to wander and wonder at the creativity of man and the power of nature.
It was 3PM when we arrived back at our hotel wrung out like a couple of dishrags. Our shelter provided some amount of respite, but we found the air conditioner to be too timid. It refused to let us have it! Our shower had the same amount of pep, cooling us down with a mere trickle. We would’ve preferred more spirited amenities, but they sufficed.
Luckily, we found an oasis in our midst that provided all the comfort we needed. Blue Pumpkin was a locally owned business that became our sanctuary while in Siem Reap. Practically every hour we weren’t visiting the temples of Angkor we were in Blue Pumpkin, lured there by gelato, robust A/C, and free wifi. Their all-white décor made you feel cool and clean the moment you stepped inside. We’d slide off our sandals, slip onto their deep couch, and straddle our laps with a personal tabletop covered in food, breakfast-in-bed style. It was literally a lap of luxury. And then there was the food itself…
Cambodia was once a French colony and its cuisine reflects its history with fresh breads and pastries as light as clouds. Meanwhile, their rice and curry dishes are a delight. The clincher for us, though, was their freshly made fruit shakes. Imagine spending hours outside during an impossibly hot day with 100% humidity and then drinking a tall, icy glass of fresh watermelon. Or, where Katie was concerned, mint and lime. These drinks were to die for! (As in, we would’ve died if we didn’t get them daily.)
Suffice to say, we spent a lot of time in Blue Pumpkin. A lot of time. So much time we were able to get $5 off our meal because we filled up a punch card…twice. It’s surprisingly easy to do when you go for breakfast and stay through lunch. During our week in Siem Reap the staff had memorized our orders! I should feel ashamed, but I don’t. Our frequent patronage of Blue Pumpkin was decadent, but necessary. When you’re experiencing the towering Temples of Angkor nearly every day, energy drains from you like an open tap. Blue Pumpkin helped stem the flow.
Day 2: Sources say it’s best to visit Angkor Wat at sunrise, so Ma-Lee picked us up at the painful hour of 5AM to do just that. We weren’t the only ones with this notion. A parade of headlights led to the front gate. People raced across the great moat and stood alongside a small lake with their cameras ready, anxious to capture that special moment when the sun breaches the walls. If you’ve seen a picture of Angkor Wat it’s likely you’ve seen it framed by this lake, its placid water creating a clear reflection, lily pads dotting the surface. At this time of year it was more a shallow pond with a few lily pads, and the occasional floating water bottle.
As each minute ticked by the sky brightened. Our mob was jittery, eager to nab a “dream shot” of Angkor Wat. But when the moment came Katie and I found it a bit underwhelming. It was strange to be on the west side as it thrust the temple into dark silhouette, no detail to be found. In the foreground sat the pond of scummy water. But we were committed, so we took the best pictures we could over shoulders and between heads. We then escaped the mob and proceeded inside, more interested in nabbing a quiet Angkor Wat experience than a photo.
Pillars wrapped around the temple creating open walkways. Within those walkways were extended sections of bas-relief etched into the walls. They depicted Hindu epics, histories, and the realms of heaven and hell. Just inside the entrance we found what appeared to be four empty stone pools. An old man was quietly sweeping the ground keeping the holy site clean. A statue of Buddha draped in a yellow sash stood nearby.
Originally built as a Hindu temple, Angkor Wat became a Buddhist temple between the 12 and 13th centuries. As we’ve traveled across South East Asia we’ve discovered a lot of connective tissue between Hinduism and Buddhism. As to what separates them, the extent of my knowledge ends at knowing the differences between Hindu Gods and Buddha. That’s it. For someone who’s not educated in any religions, trying to decipher the differences between the two is as difficult as me trying to explain the differences between Catholics and Protestants. Which is to say, I know just enough to get me in trouble, so I ain’t gonna try.
After the pools, we walked into the outer courtyard with five towers in the middle that are supposed to represent the five peaks of mythical Mount Meru, the sacred five-peaked mountain of Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. This mythical mountain is considered to be the center of all physical and spiritual universes. They floated overhead as we wandered across the grounds enjoying the remarkably well-intact temple built nearly 1000 years ago. Because Angkor Wat has a moat, the jungle has never reclaimed it, and it has never been abandoned, remaining an active temple since its creation.
On the eastern gallery wall we came upon an extremely long and impressive carving known as the “Churning of the Ocean of Milk.” The white stone canvas beautifully displayed the struggle between gods and demons. Two rows of bodies engage in an intense tug-of-war between heaven and hell, their hands wrapped around a mythical naga snake. The Hindu God Vishnu stands at the center atop his turtle avatar, Kurma. Popular in Hindu culture, this creation myth references the formation of the Milky Way and the Universe. I loved its energy and balance.
At 8am, the Mount Meru towers were opened to the public. We marched up the steps and saw their lotus peaks up close. Dancing Apsaras, which are like muses, adorned nearly every wall and pillar. We were surprised to find two large beehives nestled under an overhang. Well, not hives, exactly. They were more like bee walls – massive curtains of honeycomb covered in quivering bees. Moats may keep the jungle at bay, but nature still found a way to leave its mark.
By this time Angkor Wat was teeming with tourists. We were thrilled to have had our own tranquil moments alone with her. She felt powerful yet restrained, beautiful while not being gaudy, and vibrating with life whilst existing in peace. She was a wonder of the world in every way.
The roads were hectic as we traveled to our next destination: Bayon. This famous temple resides within the Angkor Thom complex. We entered the eastern “Victory Gate” which was adorned with a row of gods on one side and demons on the other, each tugging on a giant snake. Yes, the “Churning of the Ocean of Milk” was making another appearance, this time in statue form. A family of monkeys awaited us on the other side of the gate hoping for a dumb tourist to toss them food. We didn’t have any food, but Ma-Lee did, and he coaxed one up to say hello.
When we reached Bayon we could tell it was an entirely different style of temple. For one, the stone itself had a rougher texture. Angkor Wat was built using sandstone while the Bayon was created using laterite, which has a more porous surface. But the obvious difference was in how Bayon looked at us, and I don’t mean that figuratively. Instead of lotus spires, this edifice was tipped with four-faced heads staring in all four directions. Being a Buddhist temple, one assumes these to be faces of Lord Buddha, but some believe they represent the king who built Bayon, Jayavarman VII.
Regardless of whether they were Buddha or his kingly disciple, these heads held omnipotent visages of wisdom and peace. Nature’s paintbrush had only added to their beauty, softening their features with time and highlighting their angles with patina tones. Regrettably, the serenity of those faces could not protect us from loud, pushy tourists.
I’m fully aware that I, too, am a tourist. But I don’t enjoy touching strangers and it’s impossible for me to be loud. You should hear me try. It’s painful on your eardrums and my vocal chords. It’s for these reasons I can safely separate myself from the maddening horde that was in that moment shattering our serenity as thoroughly as a tidal wave engulfs an island.
If I could turn back time I’d have visited Bayon early in the morning rather than during Angkor rush hour. Sadly, there was no ancient time-traveling artifact hidden within the temple’s depths. At least, I don’t think there was. I would’ve checked but I couldn’t stomach the thick scent of body odor that ravaged those halls. No, we stayed out in the open air and slipped out the back.
We followed a path from Bayon to Baphuon, which was a much more disheveled looking construct. Bricks were scattered loosely around the base, yet the temple appeared to be open to visitors so we climbed to the top. From here we noticed the back wall was bulging out, looking unstable. Was the temple about to collapse?
Everything became clear when we read the history on a nearby plaque. During the civil war the Baphuon was looted and essentially torn apart. A restoration team has been puzzling it back together ever since. That bulge we were concerned about turned out to be intentional – the entire backside of the temple is a three-dimensional reclining Buddha. There was no need to worry. Buddha was keeping us elevated.
Day 3: On our final pre-dawn departure we headed to Ta Prohm. No one was present when we arrived at daybreak. To have it all to ourselves was absolute magic. For Ta Prohm, the jungle wasn’t just invading, it was defeating. Each section was torn apart by forces of nature: trees punched through walls like fists, roots as thick as trunks dug their fingers into the ground, and muscles of vines twined their way through windows, holding on for dear life.
Rather than restore the ruin, an aesthetic choice had been made to allow the vegetation to grow unrestrained because of the unique beauty it created. An exquisite choice. We marveled at Ta Prohm’s creation while basking in the glory of its destruction, the power of man and earth reverberating through every crack.
We spent a nice long time at Ta Prohm but eventually had to leave for Banteay Kdei. Another Bayon-style building, it supported a tower with four faces at its entrance. Within was a series of halls and ruins, much like Preah Khan, but less intact or stable. The building was once a Buddhist monastery but was in tatters now, with nearly the entire rooftop gone and many free-standing archways. We saw several giant spider webs adorning those arches, often with a spider as long as my finger enjoying a meal in the middle. Fascinating, albeit terrifying.
We visited several more sites on that final day, including one called Pre Rup, which was a more pyramid-style structure. It had a unique orange hue and was made up of smaller bricks, giving it a deteriorated look. Proud lions guards stood on the top, their faces wiped away by the elements. We were the only visitors present on the apex of that temple, which was a nice calming way to end our day’s excursions.
That evening we mustered up enough energy to enjoy the Phare Cambodian Circus. This circus was started by an NGO that helps young Cambodians gain skills and earn a living. They teach all manner of artistic trades from weaving to carving to, yes, juggling flaming pins. Around ten young men flexed their muscles while doing acrobatics, balancing acts, and clowning around. Their timing was sometimes off, but they were incredibly charming and bombastic. What made it so endearing (and a bit scary) was that, whenever they had missteps, they simply gave it another go, even if it took a few tries. We had a blast watching them nearly break their necks.
On that final morning we were packed and ready to leave Siem Reap. Our next stop was the nation’s capital, Phnom Penh. We knew there would be some interesting and painful history ahead, but we were ready to learn more about Cambodia, even if it meant leaving Blue Pumpkin behind. It had treated us very well, and so had the glorious temples of Angkor, which are most definitely the best temples in the world. No “probably” about it.
